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Sunrise surfing

The sun slowly pops up above the mountains in the South. The ocean is quiet, except for the surf. Waves of one to one and a half meter are peacefully heading towards shore. Twelve pelicans fly just above the water. Except for a few fisherman, returning from a nights work the ocean is quiet. Almost quiet, because two surfers are sitting on their board. Watching the waves. They where up before dawn, watched the sun coming up and headed for the water.

As a nice, big wave comes in, I turn my board, peddle, catch the wave, jump up and to my own surprise I’m riding it all the way to the coastline. Just before my board will get stuck in the sand I let myself fall down on my back in the water. The next wave puts me under, except for my two fists. They are high above the water, in triumph.

It has been six years that I surfed. I didn’t expect to get on the board, let alone to ride a wave. But I just did. With a big smile on my face I peddle out again. Ready for the next wave. When I’m on my way to the ocean, the pelicans pass by again, followed by Jamie who’s catching her first wave. Her face has the same big smile as mine. Two people who have the whole ocean just for them selves, here in Jiquillo, Nicaragua. What else can a man want?

After two hours of surfing, in the nice, almost warm water, we return to the coast. Some other surfers have come out and found their own spot. We are off to get some breakfast. Our sunrise surfing in Nicaragua is finished for the day. The next high tide, at sunset, we’ll ride again.

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